From: "Jonathan Bickel" <papillon31@earthlink.net>

Subject: Papillon update

Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 08:20:35 -0500

N 36ƒ17.93 W 76ƒ13.09

Hello from beautiful downtown Elizabeth City, NC as we begin our migration south for the winter. We departed Lily Creek on thursday and motored to the locks at Deep Creek where we locked into the Dismal Swamp. We had planned on leaving tuesday but when I started the engine tuesday morning to leave the recirculation pump on the engine sounded like two squirrels fighting over a nut. I am glad it chose to fail when it did. The weather that was predicted to be tolerable turned into two days of rain. I had a pump sent in on the BROWN and we had it installed and ready to go by wednesday afternoon.

As we motored down the Dismal Swamp the damage inflicted by Hurricane Isabel became evident as the cleanup was still well underway even though the storm came through over a month ago. Despite the number of trees that fell into the Swamp canal the Corps reopened it in haste to make this scenic route open to the hundreds of boats heading south. Thursday night we rafted up with six other boats at the Rest Stop along Hwy 17 just inside the NC state line. Probably the only rest stop in the country that has a dock and facilities for boats.

Yesterday afternoon I gathered with all the other boaters here for the traditional wine and cheese party sponsored by the Rose Buddies of Elizabeth City. It is a tradition dating back to 1983. In addition to providing free overnight docking a representative of this group meets each boat and presents the lady aboard (if there is one) a Rose. A wine and cheese party is held in the afternoon and locals come by to visit and provide transportation to the grocery or anywhere else you may need to go. Needless to say this generosity pays for itself many times over as a lot of boaters choose to come here to provision and shop to show their appreciation to the fine folks of Elizabeth City.

Today we strike out for the Alligator River Marina where we will refuel and spend the night. Then on to Belhaven and hopefully some more of that good country cooking I enjoyed on my earlier stop.

I have updated the chart and posted pictures from yesterday on the web site, just click on the link below.

Check out our Bay Map charting our position and updated pictures on http://liveaboardsvpapillon.homestead.com/Chartourcourse.html

"Goin where the weather suits my clothes"

Capt Jon & Ruby